Pulaki Temple – where the mountain meets the sea

Pulaki Temple Complex: Where the Mountain Meets the Sea

Aside from the spectacular underwater splendors off its coastline and around nearby Menjangan Island, the serene village of Pemuteran is surrounded by Bali’s distinct cultural charm. This spiritual atmosphere radiates from beautiful temples set in dramatic natural environments, most notably Pura Agung Pulaki, Pura Pabean, and Pura Melanting.

About Pulaki Temple

Centered around Pulaki Bay just east of Pemuteran Village, the temples in this region form what is known as the Pulaki Temple Complex. At its center stands Pura Agung Pulaki, accompanied by six sibling temples (known as its pesanakan or family temples): Pura Pabean, Pura Kerta Kawat, Pura Melanting, Pura Belatungan, Pura Puncak Manik, and Pura Pemuteran. According to local beliefs, these seven temples represent the Hindu concept of Sapta Loka and Sapta Patala, symbolizing the seven layers of the universe.

Nestled magnificently between rugged hills and the ocean, Pura Agung Pulaki embodies the Balinese concept of Nyegara Gunung—where the mountain meets the sea—a location associated with high spiritual energy. Considered one of Bali’s largest and most significant temples, it was built to commemorate the arrival of the 16th-century Javanese priest and saint, Danghyang Nirartha. Dominated by black granite stone architecture, the temple blends seamlessly into the surrounding cliffs.

The lush jungle cliffs behind the temple are inhabited by troops of wild monkeys. As depicted by the statues near the main entrance, these monkeys are believed to be descendants of Hanuman from the Ramayana epic. Local legend holds that when Danghyang Nirartha entered the Pulaki forest, he was escorted by these monkeys. Out of respect, he established Pulaki Temple and designated the monkeys as its eternal guardians.

Folklore also tells that before Danghyang Nirartha’s arrival, a village of 8,000 people existed here. Upon his arrival, the village leader requested a spiritual boon, which Nirartha granted: the village was bestowed with supernatural knowledge to attain an immaterial state. Consequently, the entire village and its occupants became invisible. Locals believe these spiritual beings, known as Gamang or Wong Samar, still inhabit the area, and offerings are regularly dedicated to them.

Pura Pabean and Pura Segara

Located less than 20 meters across the street from Pura Agung Pulaki, Pura Pabean sits on a small coastal hill overlooking the picturesque Pemuteran coastline. In addition to its panoramic ocean views, the temple features impressive architecture. Guarded by two grand dragon sculptures (Naga Anantaboga and Naga Basuki) at its entrance, the temple showcases a unique blend of Balinese and Chinese architectural elements, dedicated to the ancestors of early seafarers from China and other nations who visited Bali.

The name Pabean derives from the word bea, which means “customs” or “tariffs” in Balinese and Indonesian, referring to historic maritime trade and port customs activities. Consequently, this temple is frequently visited by ethnic Chinese communities in Bali as well as local fishermen and seafarers. At the foot of Pura Pabean by the shoreline lies Pura Segara, a much older and simpler shrine marked by two ancient stone piles with subtle human-like shapes.

Pura Melanting: The Temple of Traders

Situated roughly 4 kilometers inland from Pura Pulaki and Pura Pabean is Pura Melanting. Throughout Bali, Pura Melanting temples are typically located near marketplaces and commercial centers, serving as places of worship for merchants seeking good fortune and prosperous trade. The Pura Melanting near Pemuteran is recognized as the principal sanctuary of the island’s Melanting temple network, believed to be the sacred abode of Ida Betara Ratu Mas Melanting.

According to legend, Ida Betara Ratu Mas Melanting was originally Dyah Ayu Swabawa, the daughter of Danghyang Nirartha, who taught local villagers the art of commerce. Set against the backdrop of Mount Pulaki, Pura Melanting features a beautiful inner courtyard (jeroan) housing a serene pond and colorful multi-tiered meru towers decorated with traditional yellow and white ceremonial umbrellas. Its tranquil environment provides an ideal setting for prayer and meditation.

How to Get There and Traveler Tips

Located just east of Pemuteran Bay, the temples of Pulaki, Pabean, and Melanting are a short drive (approximately 8 minutes) from the main beach resort area of Pemuteran. For travelers staying in Pemuteran or Lovina Beach, renting a scooter or motorbike is a convenient way to visit, as the temples sit right along the main coastal highway.

To reach Pemuteran from major tourist hubs in southern Bali (such as Kuta, Sanur, or Nusa Dua), organizing a private driver or rental car is recommended; the drive takes approximately four hours depending on traffic. From Lovina Beach in Singaraja, the journey takes roughly one hour heading west along the northern coast road.